Category: make up
The secret’s out!
It’s here! Reknowded make up artist Charlotte Tilbury is launching her range next week at her own website, Selfridges and Net-a-porter. What awaits us? Luxurious art deco inspired packaging, formidable high quality formulas and online tutorials accompanying every single product. The whole idea is that anybody can apply make up and learn how to beautify themselves using Charlotte’s products and tips. I am a huge fan of Chatlotte’s work (Vogue, W, ID – you name it) and of her fab tutorials on net-a-porter and onnher own blog. Excited about this launch is an under statement, it is great to see a range mixing the best of the old world (vintage inspired packaging) mixed with the new world (tutorials).
Two tone lips
Best of Mascara
I often get asked what the best mascara is out there. Honestly there are so many good ones out there I think there is one that fits any bill. The great thing is that you use mascara so often it means you have to rebuy a lot, which makes for lots of testing… Another trip to the beauty store – YAY! A good mascara is the combination of an excellent formula (ie not too wet or dry and highly pigmented with carbon black) and an excellent brush. Eyeko do a little set called the Macara Wardrobe which is one formula with three brushes. Clever.
At the AW13 shows make up artists were using mascara fan brushes on which they deposited mascara formula and brushed this through the lashes creating natural looking slightly thickened lashes, without the usual va va voom fake lash effect. I’m personally going to ignore this ‘no mascara look’ that a lot of designers are featuring at the moment – I simply adore mascara, it makes me feel better. Falsies are also an excellent option too, especially individual ones which you can deposit on the outer corners only, just to give teeny bit of cats eye effect.
So here goes:
1 – Topshop Carbon Copy Mascara & Dior Show Mascara – great for lengthening
2 – Maybelline Rocket Mascara & L’Oreal Volume Million Lashes – for FAT lashes
3- Chanel Inimitable Waterproof – best waterproof I have found and it really separates each lash too.
Liberty launched a beauty magazine this week with the 4 key trends this SS13:
eye gloss & perfect skin – sixties eyes – bright pink eyes – two tone lips
Because magazine are into Geeks. Make up artist Georgina Graham and hair stylist Colin Gold go for non-functional make up. A mix of the 80’s, litte bit of 90’s and lots of contemporary cool. The freckles, bright green mascara and pale lippy remind me of our cool nanny who used to come with us on holiday. She would show me how to do make up which at the time in the 80’s was frosted pink lips and bright blue mascara. As she was lightyears older than me everything she did was cool with a capital C. Happy memories! Wonder where I can score a frosted lippy now?
Charlotte highlights the inspiration behind the film on her website: The character came from looking at the films including “Welcome to the Doll House”, Margot Tenenbaum from the Royal Tenenbaums (the character that Gwyneth Paltrow plays) and also the cartoon Daria as well as pictures of Tavi and her Rookie manual. But this is a new type of sexy geek. We found this amazing picture of Chloe Sevigny where on first glance she appears demure but actually behind her eyes you can see she’s not really innocent at all.
I really love freckles. Everyone looks so cute and sweet with them and it’s a really youthful look. It’s so easy to do: we used an eyebrow pencil and drew a smattering across the bridge of the nose, the forehead, and on the cheeks and then powder to set it.
I think blue mascara is a very fun look. Even if you’re scared of blue eye shadow, you might be able to indulge in a bit of blue mascara. It’s a very fun way you can apply some colour to your face and still look really beautiful. Blue mascara has had a bit of a bad rep. It was thought of as very 80s, either a bit Essex or a bit of a young Lady Di. It wasn’t seen as something chic or glamorous. I think that you have to curl your lashes with it and do loads of layers so you get that really 70s separated clumpy lash. If you’re going to do it then it’s like “Go on, have the balls and really do it!”
When you’re a teenager, your first lipstick is usually a frosted twist-up stick of lip balm that you buy in a chemist. Everyone’s scared of the frosted lip! So I thought I’d bring it back. You can experiment with the colour and I really love a frosted plum lip on a darker skin tone, it’s absolutely beautiful. We used a very pink YSL lipstick and then a took a pigment by MAC, which is a frosted pink powder, and patted it over the top. The pigment helps to set it because frosted lipstick can seem to disappear in a heartbeat. When I’m doing editorial work, I’m not really thinking about whether something is specifically for an eye or a lip, it’s more “How do I get the effect that I want?”
For the nails we did a clean foundation nail in a warm pink skin tone. We kept the shape oval and fairly short, something we actually call “model short” at the shows and on shoots. It’s versatile classic length, not too short, not too long: if you look at the palm of your hand, you can just see the tip of the nail at the end of the finger.” geek chic – because magazine
We have loved the flick since Amy Winehouse reinvented it in the early noughties. This season sees a return to the banana style eye liner in the crease of the eye lids. This sixties inspired look goes especially well with bambi lashes and nude lips. The AW13 shows also featured this look so let’s get shopping for eye liner. Especially gel liner does the trick nicely. MAC, Bobbi Brown and Topshop have great long lasting highly pigmented gel eye liners.
Bio Beauty in Brooklyn
A movement in brooklyn can be detected – organic skincare made by beauty lovers themselves with the least amount of ingredients possible. Counteracting the synthetic, science driven skincare are mavericks who are going back to basics and discovering essential ingredients and techniques which deliver high quality organic skincare.
SWBasics of Brooklyn (formerly known as Sprout)
Small batches are produced in a communical space on the Greenpoint waterfront by Adine Grigore and her fiancee. Originally, the products were just for herself as she has sensitive skin. Other people soon loved them and bigger batches were produced. Her vision is that if you want great skin you should not want to hurt yourself or the planet to get it. All the products are made from scratch using only whole, high-potency ingredients. Less isn’t just more; less is everything. Using fewer ingredients means more potent skincare. No cheap synthetics or exotic fillers are used which makes the product more likely to be safe on senstive skin. That’s why everything we sell only has 5 ingredients or less. And they still make you look amazing and smell pretty. SW Basics support sustainable agriculture by buying only from organic, Fair Trade, or small-farm sources. The victorian style black and white packaging makes for a beautiful bathroom staple.
Inspired by holistic healing Angela Shore studied at Kerala Ayurveda Academy and the School of Ayurveda & Panchakarma in Kerala, India. This together with Ayurvedic principles and Native American shamanism she createred Jiva Apoha, her line of all-natural face and body oils that she blends and ships out of her Brooklyn Heights apartment. All products ar made with herbs, flowers and essential oils. The packaging is stunning too and reminds me of Navaho indians rummaging around in the wild.
Soapwalla creator Rachel Winard is super passionate about natural skin care. “If I can’t create a product that’s safe and effective with only natural ingredients, I won’t release the product,” she says. She crafts her line of soaps, body oils, and more—including an ingenius cream deodorant —at Gowanus’ Old American Can Factory, a communal building filled with artists and artisans. “I adore Brooklyn. It’s home,” she says. “I love walking to work; I love running into neighbours every time I’m out and about.” Their fragrances are really fresh and invigorating.
Skinnyskinny started from a strong belief that organic and eco friendly bath & body products should work as well (if not better) than conventional products. The philosphy is to keep the products simple where they need to be simple (no synthetics, no sulfates, no artificial preservatives) and not skimping on certified organic ingredients. Packaging is recycled, reclaimed, and sustainable. And with very few exceptions every single product is made by them in their Brooklyn, NY workshop. Skinnskinny’s facility and products have been registered with the FDA are members of the Organic Trade Association. Most of the products are vegan, and all of our products are cruelty-free. I am a big fan of their dry shampoo.
Phoenix herbal skincare is formulated from the healing energy of plants, their fragrance, and beneficial properties. Handmade with fresh local plants of the northeast and organically grown herbs. All ingredients are organic and locally sourced when possible. Irina Adam is the founder and creator. She started Phoenix Botanicals in 2005, after apprenticing several years with local herbalists Robin Rose Bennett and Lata Kennedy and working at NYC’s Flower Power Herbs & Roots. Irina also worked for much of a decade in ethnobotany research and indigenous culture preservation, which exposed her to many cultural and therapeutic uses of plants. I especially like their lip balms which you squeeze up out of a carton tube.
A boutique fragrance brand and studio based in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, created by Anne McClain, a graduate of the Grasse Institute of Perfumery in southern France. They specialise in perfumes, oil roll-ons and candles. Their products are composed of the highest quality natural and synthetic ingredients in bases of organic carrier oils, pure alcohol, and distilled water. All of their products are carefully crafted in small batches and bottled by hand by our in-house production team.
Graves is a beauty product formulator, a star facialist, a herbalist and a natural beauty entrepreneur. She works with the Triangulator diagnostic method. Her website reads: “Other skin-care lines that are holistic or organic don’t necessarily follow herbalist principles. And not every herbalist sees skin as their primary focus, so that’s where I come in,” she says. She is known in New York as the “Pimple Whisperer.”
Get your liploss fix with this organic brand set up by rocker/model and new mommy Theo Kogan. As the singer for bands including the legendary all-female Lunachicks and Theo And The Skyscrapers, Theo is known for her over-the-top makeup styles. She has modeled for Calvin Klein, Burberry and Kenneth Cole (to name a few) and has acted in film, television and continues to perform in avant-garde theater all over the world. Armour’s moisturising formula is long wearing, cruelty free and environmentally friendly, with a beautiful range of colors. Formulated to stay on and moisturise with a base of: Shea Butter, Avocado, Mango and Olive butters and oils, Grape seed oil, Vitamin E and is paraben free.
If you find yourself in NYC good shops to visi are Miomia in Williamsburg, Homebody Boutique and Diana Kane in Park Sope, and Shen Beauty in Carroll Gardens.
Face Architecture with the Sculptor
Sculpting has been trending for a while; more and more products are coming out to help achieve this look. It a way of defining the face to give more depth, accents and highlights. It can transform the face (creating cheekbones for example) without heavy make up being required. Some people call it (cosmetic) Face Architecture. Tom Ford’s sculpting pallet is legendary and used by many make up artists. The sheer, light shade can be used on the upper cheekbones to reflect the light, which in turn brightens and lifts the face. The dark shade, used under your cheekbones, defines and contours cheekbones while staying invisible to the naked eye. But not being a pro make up artist myself I find it difficult to use as find I either use too much colour or don’t get the effect I am after. I love applying make up with my fingertips, but this formula definitely needs a pro synthetic make up brush for application. Synthetic make up brushes don’t absorb the formula like a natural brush would do, hence they are best for foundations/sculpting products. You also need to have well moisturised skin beforehand. The pallets I prefer to use have a light (& forgivingly) creamy formula more like the Nars multiple, which you can really blend into the skin. Benefit and Sleek make up have even brought out products which combine contouring, highlighting and blush.
See pics of my favourite sculpting products by Topshop, & Other Stories, Tom Ford, Nars and Sleek. Below 2 videos by Charlotte Tilbury. The first is a guest video for Lisa Eldridge’s website in which she explains how to achieve a beautiful sculpted look at the shoot for French Vogue on Kate Moss. In the second video she highlights how to get the look created for Tom Ford AW13 show.